Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.